Tuesday 18 March 2014

Naha City, Okinawa Island, Japan - February 22, 2014


In the morning, I showered and changed because I looked like I had spent the night on deck...well, actually, I had spent the night on deck.

The whale watching tour  that I had booked and prepaid from home only met at 13:15 so I had the morning to explore on my own. The weather was sunny and warm with a 60% chance of snorkeling. My trusty gear was locked and loaded just in case.

Leaving the ship, I could hear drums banging. It was local entertainers in bright costumes there to welcome us to Naha, Okinawa. Onboard, the Japanese customs enforcers guarded against cruise ship sandwiches and fruit coming ashore.

Descending the gangway, I could see that besides the drummers, there were singers and a little girl handing out photo postcards as a gift.

There was also a local beauty pageant winner (She might have been the mayor but she wore a sash) posing for pictures with passengers.

I asked a guide in Japanese where the information booth was and she answered me in English. Oh, well…at least I try.

The information booth was chaotic. Only three agents were on hand plus a guy doing currency exchange. As I was politely waiting my turn and was next in line to be served, this gigantic Russian-speaking man pushed in front of me to grab some maps and literature. When he did not immediately step away from the table I got uncharacteristically assertive.

"SIR..I have been waiting in line, you can do the same." and he sheepishly walked away. Seriously, I had spent so long waiting in line. I found it disrespectful. I had worked out all the details preparing for this trip in a short amount of time and others were expecting to have a five star hotel concierge to plan their tour for free as soon as they got off the ship! Well, the Japanese guides were happy to do this which is why it took so long for it to be my turn.

All that I needed was to be oriented out of the port area, understand which direction was north and see if they knew whether Naminoue Beach was open to the public in February. Finally, a nice curly-haired Japanese lady stepped over to assist me. I pointed to my curly hair then politely gestured to her and said "Watashi no imotoo desu ka?" (Are you my little sister?)

That got a laugh, I got the information and I was off in a minute or two.

The route was over an elevated highway but there was a pedestrian walkway so it was safe. Okinawa looks surprisingly a lot like Miami Beach with bridges and causeways as far as the eye can see.

Naha Port, Okinawa, Japan

After a short walk, Naminoue beach came into view. What a great little place! Sure, it's under a busy overpass and not far from a major port but the sand looked clean and soft, the water was crystal clear blue revealing rocks and coral below the surface aaaand it was also padlocked shut.

Naminoue Beach-closed when I visited in February

View from overpass of Naminoue swimming area

Waaaah! Trust me, my next visit will not be in February. All was not lost. Using my super-katakana-reading skills...I discovered that the Subway sandwich place in an adjacent hotel lobby offered free internet and massage chairs? Yup, welcome to Japan, people!

Hungry because it had been ten minutes since my last meal, I entered the Subway which looks exactly like any Subway in any city anywhere...except for the garbage bins which I will describe later.

I selected the chicken and cheese sandwich, was delighted to learn that white bread is called "Wa-i-to" rather than "shiroi no pan" and then came the toppings. There was a picture chart showing onions, olives, lettuce etc.

I didn't want any of those things just tomatoes and green pepper (to-ma-to & pi-men-to) so that's what I said. I watched the server slather an unholy amount of mayonnaise on my sandwich...I didn't recall asking for it but mayonnaise is extremely popular in Japan so I didn't complain.

I got busy counting out my 100 yen coins to pay for my sandwich and noticed the plastic tray where I should put them.

Another successful experience in Japan, I thought proudly to myself...until I unwrapped the paper and found a garden full of lettuce and olives and onions. What the heck? I squinted back at the topping picture chart to see if it said "Hold the XXX..." I didn't see that but I learned that is the subtle difference between Japanese and Canadian Subway restaurants! Now you know, too! (Postscript…my Japanese friend Tomoka says this is not the case. The jury is still out on Japanese Topping Protocol! Please comment with your observations.)

I used the free internet but never found the massage chairs. I tidied the lunch tray and carried it over to the trash bin. Uh oh...three separate areas labeled in kanji with rather unhelpful pictograms.

I am sure it said something like metal/glass, paper, organic but which was which? I must have stared at the kanji for a whole minute looking for one that I recognized. I would have recognized "metal" or "paper" but I have to study what "glass" would be. I took my best guess and hurried back to the taxi stand near the ship before the garbage police could catch me.

Whales, Whales, Whales!


We love them! We make new-age tunes with them, and in my case, we spend lotsa money on 'em. Back in October, 2010 I took a trip-of-a-lifetime to Vava'u, Tonga and spent a week and a half snorkeling with Humpbacks.

We were able to get into the water with the mothers, the babies and their male escorts practically every day. It would not be an exaggeration to say that I had whales all up in my grill.

Here's lookin' at you, kid!-Vava'u 2010 photo credit:LAUREN

I had used Whaleswim Adventures and yes, there will be blog entries about it…better late than never!

Of course, it would be difficult to top an experience like that but I'm still really fascinated by cetaceans and so are a lot of the whale-crazy people I've met. I'm talking to you, Blubber-Girl Gillian. Oh, she's not blubber as in fat…she cries when she sees or hears the whales. *ahem* I'm one to talk…wait until you read about my arrival in Tokyo!

I had prepared a Google map to the SEASIR MARINE HOUSE dive shop hosting the whale-watching tour with the address as well as directions in Japanese. It was perfectly clear. I even read the address to the driver and offered him a GPS coordinates code but he was acting like he had no idea where the place was.

I could see a water tower landmark that I knew was close to the place (thanks again, +Google Maps street view!) and guided the driver towards there. We found it with no trouble. Japanese drivers will not take a tip so I am the proud owner of some very small denomination coins. Looks like someone is going to get more vending machine goodies!

English-speaking guides greeted me at the shop and handled the process of validating my prepayment and liability release. I got the most adorable admission ticket ever...it is a child's crayon drawing of a humpback whale. Kawaii! Cute!!

The whale watching boat was actually a huge scuba diving boat with several showers and changing rooms. It would have to be the nicest dive boat I have ever seen. We did see whales but nothing like in Tonga...that trip spoiled me! The boat would basically speed in the direction of the spouting whales and approach just in time to see flukes popping out of the water in classic "Deep Dive" posture. Then we would wait twenty-thirty minutes for another opportunity. In my opinion, it was a bit aggressive and exploitative to the whales. I spent most of the trip talking to the friendly guide.

Lots of people on the boat got seasick but the staff were prepared for it and took care of everyone. The operation was extremely professional and they even offered a refund if we did not see whales. That probably would explain why they were so ready to chase them. It was a three hour trip and by the time we were done, I was ready for supper.

Regretfully, I didn't feel like going to see Kokusaidori which is the main drag for shopping and entertainment in Naha City. Instead, I just had a shower and changed for dinner in the main dining room.

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