With my spiffy new raincoat, my new handbag and my comfy yet fashion forward travel-wear, I disembarked the ship into the REAL Japan.
But...I was a bit too early. The complimentary cruise-ship-provided shuttle bus into town didn't start for another twenty minutes. I spent the time chatting with a lady from the ship and with a Japanese tour guide.
I boarded the bus. And sat. And sat. We were waiting for more passengers. I saw the number 5 Toei city bus pull up along side us. I was just about to give up on the shuttle and take public transport but my passage was blocked by folks boarding. Crap.
And sat some more. This was stupid. As soon as people stopped getting on, I jumped off right as another city bus pulled up. 200 yen later (two bucks) and bada bing! I loved the upholstery on the bus seats!
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| #5 Toei bus mascot! |
It was fun to people-watch. I saw a few young mothers wearing these super-practical anoraks with a built-in baby carrier. It was like a normal coat but instead of each side zipping closed together, there was a fabric panel in-between to hold the baby snug and warm against mum.
There were little school girls dressed in sailor suits or French Madeleine-style uniforms with straw hats and ribbons trailing behind them.
Of course, there were tons of salarymen in sharp business attire. It took just 30 minutes to get me to Tokyo Station which was not as busy as I had feared. I was pleasantly surprised. It was also very easy to navigate because signs are in Japanese kanji, Japanese hiragana and in English.
I found the Japan-Rail midori no mado-guchi (green ticket window) and gave the attendant the number of the Hikari Tokaido Shinkansen Bullet Train I wanted to take to Odawara.
Up on the platform, it was like a ballet. As the train is approaching, the conductor guys stand ready with their red flags, the recorded voices announce the arrival in English and in Japanese, passengers line up on blue markers inlaid into the floor. These markers optimize traffic flow, enabling those disembarking to exit unencumbered by the people getting onto the train. Twinkly Christmas music chimes and if the conductor guys give the all clear, the doors close and the train pulls away.
It was almost time for my train to arrive on the platform. An army of ladies in pink uniforms outfitted with squeegees appeared flanked by helmeted guys in blue onesies. All and sundry wore gloves.
The Tokaido Shinkansen Bullet Train originating at Shin-Osaka station pulled in at 11:23 am and needed to be readied before turning around with all aboard 10 minutes later.
The ballet went like this: Passengers leave the train. Blue onesies kick the pedals to disengage the seats and spin them to orient them to the new forward-facing direction. One row at a time on each side of the train...kick, spin, kick, spin. Then, the blue onesies rip the paper antimacassars off the seats...rip, rip, rip.
The pink ladies follow closely behind with fresh paper for the headrests...stick, stick, stick. The two brigades seamlessly complete the tidy up, dusting, wiping down and mopping all without bumping into each other and then file out in perfect synchronization just as the red flagged conductor guys appear to usher the passengers in. Cue the twinkly Christmas music and we're off!
My seat was comfortable and I had a huge picture window from where I could see the high-rises interlaced with train lines morph into residential apartment buildings and then into individual homes all with the prerequisite futon and laundry drying on the balconies and window sills.
Tiny cemeteries, golf driving ranges, waterways lined with fishermen and wading birds, Shinto shrines, orange trees, flower boxes, Shinagawa, Shin-Yokohama, Odawara...Disembark 35 minutes later. This is the Bullet Train…no time for verbs.
Odawara station is much smaller than Tokyo station but it has several connecting lines. Still, the excellent signage made it easy for me to find the right wing in which to purchase a ticket on the Hakone-Tozan electric railway. This time, I used the vending machine. You just look up your destination on the fare chart, insert the coins into the machine and out pops your ticket!
Insert your ticket into the platform gate for validation, collect it when it pops back out and keep it safe until you put it into the exit turnstile for fare evaluation at the final destination.
If you paid too little, you can make a fare adjustment upon arrival. It is idiot-proof.
The little red train from Odawara to Hakone-Yumato is...in a word...adorable! It is the Hello Kitty of rail transportation. Three cars, each with purple velour benches and plenty of standing room shuttle passengers on a 15 minute, 5 stop journey. A uniformed driver at each end manually pilots the train back and forth along this route.
At Hakone-Yumato, you transfer to an even cuter mountain train! Because the path is so steep, several methods are used to make the journey easier.
Firstly, there are tunnels cut right into the mountain. Secondly, the train makes a few switchback stops where we head down in elevation only to head back up in a zigzag pattern. Thirdly, we coil around the hill like a boa constrictor.
Onsen resorts are popular spa holidays for women of all ages. On the train were grannies, girlfriends and gaijin. Well, there was me, the only obvious foreigner.We did the remaining five stops winding our way through the trees with the snow becoming more and more dense as we progressed.
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| No snow at lower elevation |
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| Oh, hello there! |
Although it was sunny and mild, the remains of the previous week's blizzard clogged the village. People were still busily shoveling the pavement clear. There were little shops selling souvenirs and snacks leading up a hill to the local park where the main attraction is...wait for it...Crafthouse, a Venetian glass blowing atelier and museum!
The link above is mostly in Japanese but there is some English and many pictures. They have some incredibly beautiful things that are at once out of place and right at home in this picturesque town. A station before Gora (Chokoku-no-Mori) has the Hakone Open-Air Museum with original sculpture by Picasso, Rodin and others. The Hakone-machi area is loaded with culture from Japan and abroad.
It was such a pleasure to wend the long way around the village to the Gora Tensui ryokan for my one-night stay. The manager was outside shoveling snow upon my arrival. In Japanese, he asked me my name, I answered with the Japanese proximation because my last name cannot really be pronounced correctly in their language.
He found my name on the paper pulled from his pocket, took my bag and guided me into the lobby.
To put this event in context, keep in mind two things.
Firstly, I have been looking forward to the onsen (hot spring) ryokan experience for most of my life so expectations were high, emotions were high and my excitement was off the charts.
Secondly, in my mind the only thing that could wreck the experience was my own unintentional rudeness, western clumsiness or ignorance of ryokan etiquette.
It was like containing a charging water buffalo within a china tea cup.
The staff came into the lobby to bow and welcome me. It was beautifully overwhelming but at the same time, I kept worrying that my shoes were still on as I stood on the tile floor.
Trying my best to observe the gestures of those around me, I handed over my coat and sat down on the wooden steps leading to the foot bath bar. Aha! Socks and shoes off now! The shoes were whisked away with my coat and bag and were replaced with a pair of geta slippers neatly positioned so that it would be easy to get into them after my soak.
Up two steps and over to the bar where an incomprehensibly exotic selection of liquor stood before me. Here is where the first clumsy mistake happened. The low chair-backs with woven mat seats at the bar are not affixed to the floor. Leaning on one as I stepped into the hot water, it flipped over with a loud bang.
Oops!
No harm done. The proper technique (for women) is to kneel in front of the bar directly on the wood floor, shift weight onto your hip, swing legs into the bath, stand up, pull the chair into position, then sit gently. A note to those visiting a ryokan for the first time, you need a certain amount of physical dexterity and a not so large frame.
However, even though I am a fairly large lady by Japanese standards, my enthusiasm counts for a lot!
The bar man insisted on speaking to me in English and offered me a welcome drink. I chose his suggestion of a non-alcoholic, frozen apple mint margarita-ish thingie. It was the perfect bit of refreshment while the hot mineral water relaxed the travel-weary feet.
While enjoying the drink, we processed the check in information and settled on a time for dinner and breakfast the next morning.
Information was provided about the onsen facilities, how to access the free WiFi and how to wear the traditional cotton robe (yukata) and jacket around the ryokan.
A towel was provided to dry off and I was shown a selection of yukata to choose from. The large size came right to my ankle and wrapped around me nicely. Yukata cotton robes are very forgiving and comfy!
Into the tiny elevator which even had a chair for those who might need to sit on the tiring ride from the basement to the fourth floor.
The doors opened into a little lobby with a low table and two chairs. Nearby was a dispenser with hot and cold "ionized" water, whatever that is ...for drinking. Around the corner were two private open-air (kashikiri rotenburo) hot spring water baths for guests staying in rooms without an en-suite bath.
The attendant showing me to my room led me down a dimly lit corridor with a white pebble garden lining the floor on one side. When we arrived at room 406 called suisho according to the address plate, she slid back the wooden gate and opened the door.
Once inside the little vestibule (genkan), I was directed to remove the geta before stepping onto the wooden floor. The attendant showed me a small cupboard where my shoes had been placed.
To the left down a short hall way was the washroom. A towel warmer, fancy Japanese Toto toilet, scented pink bathroom tissue and a take-home amenity kit were part of the features. The amenity kit and products were extremely high quality. The shampoo and soap smelled so good and the shower was huge!
Sliding doors from the hall led to the bedroom and sitting area. The 12 tatami mats were soft and luxurious. The futon was on a low base, not directly on the floor. I had been hoping to have more traditional bedding but it was fine. Extra futons were in a closet.
A room safe, overcoats and obi belts for the yukata and tabi socks were in another closet along with baskets for personal items.
The sitting room, separated by a sliding shoji screen had a mini fridge, television, tea kettle and tea necessaries. The view of the mountain and village was beautiful. This time, I won't bore you with my hapless video skills and rambling commentary as I poked around the room. Wanna see pictures? Go check their fancy, professionally marketed website!
Everything was comfortable and clean and the staff could not have been more helpful and welcoming.
The first order of business was to explore the rotenburo baths on my floor. The idea here is that you can bathe alone or with just your party if you wish. The public baths were in the basement. It's part of the Japanese culture to enjoy communal bathing, naked. For my very first go, I thought it best to be alone. There was no one waiting in the sitting area and both were empty when I got there at around 3:30 pm…just after check-in.
I randomly chose the one on the right, latched the sliding door for privacy, removed my geta and stepped up onto the carpeted platform. I got undressed and put my things into a basket and noticed a vanity with shower caps, hair ties, all sorts of lotion and face cream and a few hair dryers for après bath.
The shower area was a tiled floor separated from the changing room by a glass wall with a door. There were two shower stations each with a low wooden bench, a bucket and containers of body wash, shampoo and conditioner. I had a shower and rinsed away the soap.
Beyond the shower room was a door leading outside to a balcony. With just my teeny towel to cover me, I stepped out. There was a tall wall for privacy but I could still enjoy the view of the surrounding mountains and the snowy village below. The outside air was a little chilly but the water was very hot so I sat on the edge of the wooden two-person tub and slipped in slowly. There was an awkward period where my legs were boiling but my top was shivering! I used the little wooden ladle to gradually pour the warm water over my shoulders, acclimatizing my skin to the temperature. Eventually, I was in up to my neck and the steam swirled around my face.
It was silent except for the water flowing into the tub to replace that which had spilled out as I got in. Occasionally, a crow would caw from a nearby tree. Once the water level reaches the lip of the tub, the flow stops automatically.
Perfect silence...relaxation...joy, fulfillment.
Twenty minutes or so later, I got dressed in the yukata and geta, tucked my room key into the convenient sleeve-pocket and sipped some of the cool "ionized" water before visiting the ladies' public bath.
There were two sets of lockers, the first for shoes, the second for clothes. I guess some people use the facility just for the day without staying at the hotel.
There was a change room, shower, sauna, an indoor hot spring pool and then an outdoor hot spring pool. Each of the pools could accommodate at least 10 people.
No one was in the indoor section and there were six ladies outside plus two new arrivals in the changing room. Still red in the face from my first soak, I stepped into the onsen lobby area between the men's and ladies' change rooms. Here, they played typical spa music complete with birdsong and ocean wave mash-up.
They had an extensive library of books and magazines to read while you zen out. I looked at a poetic photo essay about the life of snow-monkeys in Hokkaido by season. Of course, the winter monkeys were the cutest!
Onsite was a spa treatment centre offering facials, body massages and some kind of pomegranate wrap for "female hormone balance"...if my Japanese didn't steer me wrong. Um, no thank you!
I took the stairs to the main lobby where my dedicated bar tender awaited. He explained the view to me. A giant kanji for the word big had been burned into the mountain during last August's summer festival.
He gave me cool sake to drink while I enjoyed the inspiring view and once again used the foot bath. My bar tender poured with a heavy hand and I was terrified that I might get a bit tipsy. Luckily, the hotel manager ushered me to dinner!
It was a bit of a surprise that dinner was not served in my room but it soon became abundantly clear why.
My western style dining area with table and four chairs was very private and surrounded by a half wall separating the space from the adjacent tables.
My bartender was my waiter and he placed a blanket over my knees to keep the chill off. There was really no need but it was a comfort to have a giant fluffy napkin to protect the yukata.
Epic meal time begins with a warm towel to cleanse the hands and the presentation of a calligraphed menu on beautiful rice paper.
Houjicha (Roasted Tea) is served and hold onto your hats...like individual rain drops adding up to a torrential downpour these tiny, impeccably presented dishes just kept on coming from the kitchen. Here is my limited memory of what was served, apologies if there are errors or omissions.
Crab. (I wish I had been paying more attention to the waiter who explained each plate to me using a Japanese- English dictionary but I was too overwhelmed early in the meal.)
Black sesame tofu with sea urchin.
Leeks & herring served with quail egg and vinegar.
Sea cod with nappa and yuzu (local citrus) zest in broth which tastes deliciously of smoke.
Sashimi tuna and sea bream with mejiso (little red shiso sprouts)… tastes like pepper. Also garnished with blue shiso flower buds.
Fiddleheads with king crab and daikon & rice porridge.
Ribbon eel (amazing texture...pretty in the water and pretty in my mouth) and scallop with seaweed, fish eggs and carrot with miso paste, sudachi (tiny lime) and black soy beans. This might have been my favourite dish.
Chawanmushi (egg custard texture) ginger and soramame (fava bean) soup served hot.
Chilled green bean, cream and black pepper soup…tasted a bit like blue cheese.
Duck with foie gras and kabocha (pumpkin), balsamic vinegar sauce and burdock root.
Tsukemono (pickles), miso soup with tiny clams, gohan (rice)
Dessert served at the bar:
Green Tea, yogurt with apple and kiwi sauce. Yuzu sorbet. Fresh fruit plate of grapefruit and strawberry with crème fraîche.
Burp! Didja catch all that? There is no way that they could have managed the logistics of dragging all that to my room! No complaints here. The manager got a wheelbarrow and trundled me off to bed. (Kidding, I made it on my own but just barely.)
