Wednesday 28 May 2014

Overnight in Yokohama


The Super Hotel by Lohas is a Japanese chain providing budget accommodations for business and leisure travelers across Asia.

They keep the cost down by providing tiny rooms in many convenient locations. The Yokohama-Kannai branch is walking distance from the Osanbashi cruise passenger terminal, the stadium and Japan's biggest Chinatown.

I handed my prepaid hotel voucher to the reception clerk and without even looking at it she welcomed me in English "Good afternoon Ms. Rogue Wave"… I guess they don't get too many Canadians.

They had been running a ridiculously cheap deal: $45/night. I was given an electronic PIN to access the room and an amenity kit with really nice products including a face mask, cleanser, toner, moisturizer and herbal patches to relive sore muscles plus the usual shampoo, conditioner & tooth care set.

The clerk put me on the top floor which is for women only and nonsmoking. Since there is no room key, you simply punch the code into a keypad and voilĂ …well not quite voilĂ .

It seems that the nice products in the kit were actually provided to lubricate one's body sufficiently to squeeze through the narrow entrance!!!

It was like doing one of those wolf-goat-cabbage in a rowboat puzzles. You had to carefully position yourself in order to take off shoes, to get the bags and yourself in and be able to close the door. Then, you had to move the bags to block the front door in order to open the bathroom door. It was a tight fit!

There was a high step into the bathroom and my knees grazed the toilet roll on the wall opposite the toilet.  The bath was deep so you had to lift your legs high to step in.

The faucet swiveled between the sink and the bath and was controlled by a single set of taps. There was also a switch to direct water to the faucet or the shower nozzle. Hot water came out so instantly scalding, that they had to put a warning!

You were also warned to shut the bathroom door while bathing because steam sets off the smoke detector.

The main part of the room was the bed with a desk, chair, TV, kettle and oddly…a face-steamer like the kind you see at the esthetician.

Mattress and pillows were really hard but I prefer that. All this to say that I liked the room but most North Americans would have left after seeing it.

After a nice bath, I chose to sleep and woke up at 4:30 am. I watched local morning news which has weather, traffic and sports plus some interesting segments unique to Japan.

They have the flower viewing forecast, the laundry-drying forecast, the announcers bow to the audience and according to a guy I met on the ship, living room viewers sometimes respond in kind!

Any cut-away segments are broadcast with a sidebar so that you can watch the reaction of the anchors. For example, on the big part of the screen, you see highlights of the Baystars' baseball game and in a little inset window, the host smiling when they score a home run.

It got weird when they did a segment on infertility and both presenters had to silently emote sympathy for the childless couples featured on screen.

Tokyo TV Shopping Channel was also fun to watch. Japanese people don't usually get hyper-excited about anything but they try to copy the Sham-wow/QVC model of television marketing. Hilarity ensues when they use every possible facial muscle to convey their elation at the plastic microwaveable steam cooking storage containers.

They make the best faces when tasting the three-minute meals made in real time and squeak out the word 'delicious' in tones ranging from normal to something only a Shiba Inu could perceive.

After a shower, I visited the nice breakfast spread in the lobby cafeteria which was included in the price.

I had natto and rice with a raw egg, mustard and soy sauce. They also offered a generous selection of fresh breads and pastries but I can get croissants any day.

Soup, boiled eggs, sausages, pickles, tea & coffee were also available.

I wanted to get a coffee to go but they didn't have paper cups. Instead, I visited the 11th floor vending machines. As soon as the elevator opened, the smell of tobacco was overpowering. This was a smoking floor. Oy. I grabbed two cans of coffee, one hot, one cold and quickly returned to my room.
It was around nine-thirty am when I collected my stuff and left the hotel. The weather was sunny, around 15°C and the streets of Yokohama were not crowded at all. It was a very short walk to Osanbashi pier, maybe ten minutes. The sidewalks are well-maintained and flat for rolling luggage. You don't see any dog poo, garbage or even dirty water on the sidewalks.

Crosswalk signals are at every intersection and pavement is raked for wheelchairs, strollers and luggage to roll along easily. I did smell and see some sakura cherry blossoms but most blooms had already peaked and fallen off.

You could also smell the fresh salty seaweedy air approaching the cruise terminal.



The Osanbashi cruise ship terminal was designed to give visitors on board a great view of Yokohama and landlubbers can easily see the ships from a nearby plaza.

The passenger terminal is in a low building with underground parking and a rooftop viewing area. Floor surfaces are decked with a weather-resistant hardwood. It looks very elegant. Visitors can also see the ships from the grassy roof garden.

It was only around 9:45 am when I arrived. Passengers from the previous Volendam cruise  were still disembarking. I noticed that they were all Japanese. It turns out that the group had chartered the sailing.

I chatted with Carol from the UK, a solo lady who was a bit nervous but nice.

The crowds thinned out and the small number of early-birds were invited to drop our luggage off at the counter. We were given an embarkation number and sat in a waiting area until about 10:45 am when my number was called.

I did the entire embarkation in Japanese and the clerk was very pleased. She read my name off my passport. (My name in Japanese sounds like isaribi, the word for the lights that fisherman hang from their boats to attract squid.) So I said that word to her..."Yes, I am squid-light." It was really funny but I guess you had to be there. It only took about five minutes to finish the process and receive my keycard.

Next came the embarkation photo, security, standard cruise-ship baptism of Purell hand sanitizer and finally the trip up the gangway. The dinner reservation guy was right at the entrance so I booked anytime dining for 5:15 pm. Then I asked an officer when the muster drill would be and he said "tomorrow."

Wonderful news! I turned on my heel and walked right back out to Yokohama for lunch. By now it was 11:15 so my room wasn't even ready yet.

Even though it was windy, it was sunny and warm. The entrance to Chinatown was a short walk away and there were tons of choices of restaurant. I chose a sit-down place with a fixed price for any three items from a 70 item selection.
I got some spicy tofu, fried eggplant and shu mai.


Next, I explored the park next to the baseball stadium. There was a tulip festival happening. Every color was in bloom from white to deep purple. There were duck ponds and cute little paths to follow. The park was filled with people from all walks of life. It was lovely and it smelled great.

Next, I stopped into a sports shop to buy some gloves for chilly Hokkaido and Alaska and leisurely made my way back to explore Holland America Line's MS Volendam.


Navigating Narita


Luckily, there were no hiccups for my outbound journey. A little jaunt from Montreal to Vancouver, time for a comfy leg-stretch layover followed by an uneventful, half-full flight to Tokyo.

Upon arrival in Japan, Narita airport was crowded but I was determined to deal with my anxiety. We had to wait in line for thirty minutes for immigration. There were lots of people bumping into my "personal bubble" which really bugs me but I found that a really long stare at the pushy guy behind me worked like magic.

I wrote the name of my hotel in Japanese on my immigration card and the officer could actually read it!

My suitcase was right on the carrousel as I approached and the Japan Rail ticket kiosk and gateway to the train platforms were just steps away from the arrivals door.

However, there was a wall of people! Lineups for tickets, information, rental cars etc. would span the entire width of the terminal so if you had to move across the length of the terminal, you had to cut through several queues.

Complicating this process was the addition of tons of dawdling, jet-lagged gawkers, their kids, their suitcases and 111 year-old grannies.

By the time I got to the Japan Rail agent, I was so happy to get a ticket out of there. Knowing the language and having prepared in advance was key! It only took a minute to complete the transaction. Also, it only cost me $15! Locals pay $45. Whee!

Two escalators down to the platform, a short walk with my rolling bag (thank goodness, loved ones all convinced me to join the 21st century) and a short wait on the bench was all it took to catch the Narita Express train to Yokohama.

The train clean up brigade had 1920's style golf outfits with argyle vests, felt caps, bright yellow shirts and beige jodphurs! They bowed to the train as it pulled into the station before commencing their work readying the cars.

The train was a bit less comfy than the Shinkansen because the seats were narrow but it was fine. Every car has a screen showing a map with the next stop and connecting trains in Japanese, English, Chinese, and Korean. A television shows the news.

After transferring my valuables into my backpack from my carry-on, I left my reserved seat and walked up two cars to the restroom onboard. Wow, it was super clean and fresh with nice soap and lotion. It was even nicer than the airport bathroom where I had quickly changed clothes.

The scenery was remarkable. Last trip, I hadn't noticed the bamboo trees everywhere. You just know that you are in Japan when you see that! When you see Japanese art, there are always bamboo trees and sure enough...that's what you see from the train!

There were also families tending their vegetable patches, gardening or raking fields. Practically every home had a little dog on the property either in the yard or going for a walk. That's what you see from the train on a Sunday afternoon in the suburbs between Chiba and Tokyo.

Between Tokyo and Yokohama was just like being on the Long Island Railroad. Aside from the station place names, the experience is similar.

Yokohama station was also fairly crowded but the signs to the taxi stand made it easy to navigate. The ten minute drive to my hotel cost three dollars more than the 90 minute train ride! Oh well, it was nicer than navigating the subway with luggage.

It was so nice to be back in Japan and Yokohama's Kennai-Chinatown district was a perfect place to begin my trip.

Wednesday 14 May 2014

Repositioning Myself

Traveling can teach a body a lot about managing expectations.

As in life, the best laid plans can turn to pig slop before you know it. In the precarious space between normalcy and crazy, the lesson is useful.

A recent trip provided ample opportunities for learning this skill.

After returning from a 14-day Asian cruise, the wanderlust persisted and although I felt like my depression was receding, I still wasn't quite ready to find a job. The travel ads in my inbox caught my eye more than my eye caught the want ads.

It didn't take long for a "once-in-a-lifetime" deal (that in reality comes pretty frequently if you're paying attention) to turn up.

+Holland America Line, 17 day repositioning cruise starting in Yokohama, Japan with three stops in Aomori, Hakodate and Kushiro followed by a six-day Pacific crossing and then an Alaskan cruise featuring Kodiak, Ketchikan, Glacier Bay and the Inside Passage to Vancouver, B.C.

Six days at sea in a row would be a first for me but the price and chance to visit such uncommon ports of call were very appealing. Aomori and Hakodate are cities that have some of the best seafood and vegetables produced in all of Japan. In Kushiro, the attraction is the Red-crowned crane (Grus japenesis) that was rescued from extinction by locals in the 1920s. This would be my third trip to Alaska but hey, it's one spectacular place with tons of shore excursions and it would be the earliest in season to see it, coinciding with the return of migrating Humpback Whales!

My travel agent-goddess got a call and she secured me a cheap-ass guarantee rate inside cabin. Even at double the price for the single supplement, this was a deal.

But…

I've since learned that the North Pacific is anything but pacific. Weather circumcised our stop in Kushiro and aborted our stop in Kodiak necessitating a port change to Juneau, AK. Our Ketchikan, AK snorkel trip got cancelled at the water's edge for safety reasons due to high winds and rough seas.

A horrible chest cold and a bad choice of medication made me sleep through most of our stop in Aomori.

My fellow passengers were a different breed of animal. Repositioning cruises attract a non-traditional crowd! Onboard were: a large group of Germans who seemed to complain loudly about everything, several Japanese who were always beautifully dressed, a convoy of English-as-a-second language teachers returning to North America from Asia and a full deck of American Bridge Association players!

Not everyone agreed on what was appropriate to wear or how to behave. Lots of folks were using this trip as a cheap way to ship their stuff back home after a stint in Asia. Most people were older than me, and some were older than the glaciers. Activities were geared to their interests and other than the really interesting talks by the Biologist, George Sranko, organized activities were dull.

Disappointment was around every corner but I made the best of it. I used the time to crochet, read and watch some really good movies. I missed the cranes but read about them online. We didn't get to snorkel but we got our money refunded and swapped adventure stories on the bus. A few clods in flip-flops and T-shirts aren't going to ruin my formal dining experience.

Rewards were sweeter next to the letdowns. For example, the windless and relatively warm conditions in Glacier Bay made for perfectly smooth mirror images of the mountains and ice on the water. Photographers must have taken some quality shots that day.

We got to see so many marine mammals in Juneau…we weren't even supposed to stop there but I saw Sea Lions, Sea Otter, Humpback Whales and Dolphins. The city scrambled to welcome us with only a day and half notice and they succeeded in giving us lots of great memories.

A more detailed report will follow but just this summary just encapsulates a reminder that now matter how well you can plan, you have to be able to adapt your expectations and be ready to accept a bit of change. You can't let other people spoil your fun, either. Avoid them, laugh at them, make friends with them in a pinch! The importance of managing expectations was the message that this trip highlighted for me.